I had planned to camp tomorrow night at Colorado national monument. But given deteriorating weather, I will probably skip the camping and drive straight home.
If so tonight will be the last night of this trip. It would be great if I was treated to another starry night, but I'm not counting on it.
Or is it?
Both pics are from the same location at 10 am. The first is looking down the canyon toward Havasupai Gardens campground, a short distance away. The second is looking back at the south rim, 4 miles away and 3000' up. By noon the skies had clouded over, but I was already back from my hike.
The campground really is an oasis. The pics speak for themselves.
Only real conversation today was with another volunteer ranger, a schoolteacher from Phoenix. She said that visitations were down this year, especially from Canada. I have no way to verify this.
On the descent, I passed three guys that were razzing each other in a good-natured way. One had a muddy shoulder, so clearly he had slipped in the mud. Another accidentally dropped his trekking pole while waving me ahead. After I passed them, one of them said: Crap, my pole is bent! One of his companions asked if he had considered using a walker.
When a 6 year old boy asked his father about the meaning of this sign,
the dad took a deep breath, and then explained the concept of Instagram deaths.
The steep trails at the Grand Canyon get a lot of use from hikers and pack animals. And they are also damaged by rock falls, slides and runoff. After yesterday's rain the Bright Angel trail was only wet in spots,
but in 2021 I hiked up this trail during an intense cloudburst. Streams were running across the trail, and ravines like this turned into mud waterfalls.
... as Pete said to Kermit the Frog. I'll post some pics later, but I'm struck by how spending time at the Grand Canyon always makes me feel better about people. Most everyone is very present, attentive and thoughtful. When hikers see a couple taking photos of each other, they often ask: Would you like one of both of you? And even if they're not familiar with trail etiquette such as uphill hikers having the right of way, they figure it out by observing other hikers. In contrast to every other situation in life, at the canyon people actually RTFM! Yesterday I heard a guy tell his wife, "Well, that climb we just did was like 112 flights of stairs." Which he got from an informational sign, like the ones all of us ignore in the real world. Some hikers pick up litter, and yesterday one woman patiently waited for the owner of a misplaced satellite phone to realize it was missing and dial the number.
Today started out sunny, a pleasant surprise after 10 hours of rain yesterday. I was planning to hike 4.5 miles to Havasupai Gardens campground, but at 3 mile rest stop I saw clouds rolling in. So I decided to turn around there. As I started up the trail, a man came up to me, saying "Sorry, l have question for you about how far. My English is not good - you understand?" This was Mariano, hiking with Carlos (who spoke no English). They wanted to know if they should turn back here or continue farther. I asked them to follow me a short distance to an overlook past the rest stop, where they would be able to see the next destination. I pointed down to the cottonwood trees by a stream, and explained that this was the campground. Which was (doing math in my head) 2.5 km away and 300 m down. It might take them less than an hour to get there, but the climb back up could take 2 hours. Mariano asked how long it would take to reach the river, which I estimated would take 3 hours. Given the weather I suggested not proceeding, but it was their decision to make. They thanked me, introduced themselves, praised the beauty of the canyon, and turned to enjoy the view and talk it over.
A short distance up the trail I caught up to a young couple who were at the rest stop. The woman asked: Did they decide to keep going? I said that they were discussing it, but it seemed likely that they would turn back. These two were from Olympia, Washington, so they weren't too bothered by the rain. I mentioned that yesterday I met a woman from Puyallap, WA while we were both walking to the rim. She was staying at the Maswik lodge, and had spent the previous evening hanging out there because her tour was going to start the next day. But in the morning when she spoke with the lodge's activity desk, they explained that the rim was 5 minutes away (!) She was annoyed that nobody told her this earlier. Hearing this the guy from Olympia grimaced, and said that they never go on tours because they like doing their own research and planning. We agreed that tours are a comparatively passive experience.
A half mile from the rim, I saw a middle-aged couple I had noticed early that morning. At our first encounter, they were taking a breather about 2 miles below the rim. What initially struck me was that they were both wearing stylish camo pants. When we said hi, the guy gave me what Pittsburgh natives would call a Willie Stargell smile. Seeing them again, I asked how far they hiked. They said to the ranger station, which I know is at the campground, 4.5 miles from the rim. But since they were hiking slower than me, how could they have covered more distance??? This confusion was due to my erroneous assumption that earlier in the day, they were heading down. Turns out that the previous day they had hiked to the campground before getting caught in the rain. Since they had no camping gear, the ranger let them spend the night at the station. This must have been quite stressful and uncomfortable, but here they were gamely making their way to the top. And still smiling!
Back at the rim, the good behavior continued. Drivers were amazingly courteous, keeping an eye out for pedestrians, bikes and wildlife. People even obey the posted speed limit, which is 15 mph in the campground. It is like I'm on a Star Trek voyage to a planet where humanoids live up to their potential.
Yes, it's a Grand Canyon exclusive news update:
Looks like Mr Scamp got the Denver Boot (google it) for illegally camping in the backpackers lot.
Yet no one has come after the elk for bugling during Mather campground quiet hours.
Today I got in 8 miles of hiking, keeping an eye on storm clouds. There was a sprinkling of rain at 12:30, with some lightning. Then a heavy downpour 2 hours later. It is still raining at 5:30, so I am charging the Tesla instead of hiking.
It takes a lot of employees and volunteers to support visitors like me. Today I saw several crews repairing the trail, which I have seen on previous visits. This year the trans canyon water pipeline is being refurbished. This pipeline provides water to the lodges and other buildings on the south rim, the rest stops along the trail, the Phantom Ranch cabins and dining hall at the base of the canyon, and more. The stone building near Havasupai Gardens is a water treatment plant and booster pump station.
Wranglers lead mule trains down and up the canyon, carrying supplies or visitors.
Wildlife biologists track bighorn sheep, mule deer and other critters using motion detecting cameras.
Geologists analyze the 1.7 billion years of layered rocks, and try to make it comprehensible to the public.
And vast numbers of workers staff the lodges, restaurants and services along the rim, including the Maswik lodge pizza pub employee who poured me a refreshing pint of Wanderlust Brewing 928 Local ale. And since some of the workers are parents, there's a school and library in the village. Also a medical clinic, post office, stables, visitor center, and more. I am grateful for all of it, as the efforts of hundreds allow me to hike truly magical trails.
This morning I caught up with a young Swiss couple, Stefan and Elisa. They are very experienced hikers, but they are not used to the heat and terrain of the southwest. So they had some questions about the trail, esp. whether it was safe to descend below 3 mile rest stop when thunderstorms are predicted for the afternoon. We hiked together to this stop. I learned that on their vacation they have been to San Francisco and Sequoia NP, and on the way back they will see Zion, Death Valley and Yosemite. Stefan is a software engineer for a data security firm. He said that AI coding assistants are making coding less satisfying, because his job now involves fixing bugs in AI generated code. Since he used the phrase "AI slop," I recommended John Oliver's AI Slop episode on youtube.
On the way up I saw Jane, the 70 yo mega backpacker. While camping at Havasupai Gardens she had hiked the Tonto west trail to Horn Creek. I have done this hike before. We both love the Tonto trail, which meanders around side canyons on a plateau 1500' above the river.
Okay, I know my half dozen followers are eager for strange encounters like the woman that left her husband behind. Yesterday I heard a guy become fixated on this emergency phone by the 1.5 mile rest stop.
He said to the woman he was with: Did you see the phone? lt's like an antique, with a handset and wires and everything. They must have run telephone wires all the way down here for this antique phone, when everyone is carrying a cell phone. They did! See the little pole with the wires? I wonder if it even works. Maybe they left it for historic interest. Did you try opening the door? No? Look, it's easy. Now I can open the box inside. (Dramatically) I am not going to pick up the receiver, because it might initiate a call.
In contrast, today an Asian family noticed a wildlife camera by the side of the trail. They tried to guess what it was; then a woman walked up to it and read from an explanatory card, so everyone could hear. I know the card basically says that it's not a toy, it's very important for tracking wildlife, it's US government property, so don't F with it and have a nice day.
Because I am camping, I have to prepare my meals. I used to make oatmeal for breakfast and canned soup for dinner, but now I mostly eat cold food such as cereal with milk (protein), sandwiches with home-made hummus (more protein!), yogurt, DIY trail mix, etc. Quicker, healthier and less cleanup. But hot coffee is non-negotiable!
This requires an extremely well insulated cooler.
... and it helps to find a shady spot to park your car.
Camping is surprisingly cheap at the Grand Canyon. It just takes some online research. I prefer a quiet spot, e.g. not next to the bathrooms. An inexpensive mesh tent with a detachable rain fly works fine.
And for hiking in desert like conditions, protecting your skin from the sun trumps style. My cap does a great job, even though a guy that reviewed it worried that the white mesh neck shade looked "too bridal."
Y'know, I have spent many days hiking where I barely talk. Maybe a dozen monosyllable hi's and hey's. In some remote areas like Arizona's Superstition wilderness, I might not even see another hiker. So it was a first for me to have four conversations today.
Hiking up above the 1.5 mile rest stop, I saw a 50ish guy sitting on a rock by the trail. He looked okay, just very beat. Shortly afterward I caught up to a woman, who asked if I had passed a man. When I said yes, she asked if he was still sitting on a rock. Then she said that she might as well continue hiking, as she was tired of waiting for her husband. This was his second rest in a fairly short stretch, and she was mad that he hadn't prepared better for this trip. Especially since she was the one recovering from a torn meniscus. "Continuing by myself wouldn't be bad, right?"
Since she asked, I said that I would never leave another hiker behind. I also asked if they lived at high altitude, and when she said no, I said that the canyon's 7000' elevation affects everyone differently. Some are fine, while others are out of breath and dizzy. By this time the husband had nearly caught up, so perhaps I saved this marriage.
Last conversation was with another volunteer ranger. He lives in Maryland, where for 29 years he worked as an EMT. Now he volunteers for a park in Maryland, and this is his second time volunteering at the Grand Canyon. Unlike the other trail rangers he rides (flies?) in the ambulance. At the 3 mile rest stop he talked with a dozen hikers, most of whom spoke little English. When he was done I told him how much I appreciate the volunteers, especially when the parks are so short staffed. He said yeah, that's why I'm doing ambulance duty.
Continuing downhill below the 1.5 mile rest stop, I caught up with a woman who was carrying a full pack with camping gear. Usually I just say hi, but she was so friendly that I asked if she had been to the Havasupai Gardens (formerly Indian Gardens) campground before. She smiled and said that she has done 70-80 backpacking trips at the Grand Canyon. (That sound is my head exploding). She looked to be around 70, but was clearly super fit. We talked for over 20 minutes. Here's what I learned, pretty much in reverse order from my summary.
Her name is Jane. She lives in Albuquerque, NM, which she said is an excellent city for hikers due to the nearby Sandia mountains. But it does have violent crime and a lot of homelessness. She has a degree in English, but during the 80's she was a professional cyclist! She also worked as a programmer for The Phone Company. After some years she wanted a change, and her husband suggested that she might find law school interesting. First she took a 6 month break which she mostly spent backpacking; then she got a law degree from U of New Mexico. Initially she worked for a firm where she primarily handled civil rights cases, but eventually she left to start her own practice. And finally she worked for the New Mexico Disciplinary Board, which investigates lawyers. She really liked this work, but one day she just decided it was time to retire. Now she does a ton of hiking, including taking newbies on backpacking trips. She suggested that I try backpacking on the Hermit's trail at the Grand Canyon. I have hiked the upper part of this trail, but further down you need water filters since there is no potable water. She also mentioned several New Mexico hiking areas I would enjoy.
Oh, and she said that her husband was staying on the rim, because he's 82.
This morning I hiked down to the 3 mile rest stop. About a mile down a volunteer ranger asked how I was doing, and where I was heading. This is what trail rangers do. They make sure hikers know the difficulty of the trail, have plenty of water and snacks, and aren't struggling or showing signs of dehydration, heat exhaustion, altitude sickness, etc. They offer tips, like soaking your shirt to stay cool. Basically they try to keep people from getting into trouble.
Since there were few people on the trail, we were able to hike together for ten minutes. I learned that she's been volunteering with the park service for about ten years. To me she looked about 60. She enjoys being out on the trails, and she hikes down to the river every other week. And she has hiked R2R (rim to rim).
I mentioned an odd experience I had yesterday. As I walked up the stone steps to the toilets at 3 mile rest stop, I heard a young man and woman having a conversation. And I thought: What a weird place to chat someone up. When I reached the toilets it was even weirder, because the guy was sitting on the deck, speaking thru an open door to a woman inside. But then I heard enough to realize what was going on. She had become ill and had vomited, and he was getting a rundown on her symptoms, health conditions, medications, etc. Not a ranger, but someone with first aid training.
The ranger I was hiking with said that there were 3 helicopter rescues yesterday, and one was mid afternoon to evacuate 2 people near the 3 mile rest stop. She wondered if it was the same people. But by coincidence I saw them myself. It was two women who did not look like experienced hikers. They were red faced and exhausted, resting on some flat rocks while a ranger tended to them. I heard him say: We need MedEvac.
I arrived at the south rim mid afternoon on Sunday, leaving me enough time to hike 3 miles down the Bright Angel trail before heading to the campground to make dinner and pitch the tent. At night I heard elk bugling nearby.
I had hoped to set out at 6 am this morning, but because I needed to work late on Friday I wasn't fully packed. Also I needed to water the yard, make hummus, grind coffee, print campground reservations, etc. I finally left at 8:30, and got one block from my house when I realized that I had not put the cooler in the car. 🙄 But after that I was really on my way, enjoying seeing yellow aspens near Georgetown, the jagged summit of 14,000' Grays peak, and the towering walls of Glenwood canyon.
I stopped to charge in Rifle, CO. This is the town where Lauren Boebert opened Shooters Grill, the restaurant where all the servers carry guns. At the Supercharger I learned that you can only charge to 80%... unless you're willing to pay a 50 cent per minute "congestion surcharge." I hope this isn't the case in out-of-the-way towns like Blanding, UT.
I arrived at Colorado National monument around 2:30, then drove to the upper Monument canyon trail head. I had plenty of time to do the 3.5 mile hike to Independence monument, a spectacular rock spire.
After that I drove to the campground, where I had a picnic dinner. Hummus sandwich, fresh carrots and broccoli, a dill pickle, pretzels, mandarin oranges and yogurt. Although it was partly cloudy today, looks like it will be a clear, mild night. So I should see stars thru the mesh top of my tent.
I had planned to camp tomorrow night at Colorado national monument. But given deteriorating weather, I will probably skip the camping and dr...
